The Best Way to Choose and Fit Boots
First, choose a boot that will coincide with your intended use. Are
you a casual backpacker? Do you like to travel off-trail? Do you want
your boot to be waterproof, or just water repellent? Most fabric and
leather boots are less stiff and require a shorter break in period than
their full leather counterparts. Usually, full leather boots with one
piece leather uppers are the best choice for backpackers who enjoy multi-day
trips, carry heavy packs (50lbs.+) , and travel off trail. Always consider
purchasing boots that may seem a little too much for your needs as this
may prevent another purchase later if your outdoor style becomes more
ambitious. Non waterproof fabric and leather boots are quite suitable
for the day hiker or backpacker. Boots that have a waterproof and breathable
bootie are becoming increasingly popular, especially in rainy, northern
climates. Whatever your needs, obtain a proper fit from a knowledgeable
person, and ask questions. Informing the salesperson of your intended
use for the boots is very wise. If your sales consultant offers to measure
your feet, it is best not to decline because they have your best interest
in mind. You will know you are dealing with a professional if that person
uses a Brannock device and informs you regarding your weighted (standing)
and unweighted (sitting) measurements. Also, it is best to try boots
with the socks you intend to wear while hiking.
One of the most important elements in proper boot fitting involves
the use of a slope, or incline, so that uphill heel slip and downhill
toe comfort can be checked. Your heel should not slip more than 1/4
to 1/2 inch nor should your toes hit the end of the boots when hard,
downhill steps are taken. If your weighted measurement is greater than
your unweighted measurement, that means your feet elongate. If your
feet elongate, your weighted measurement must be considered. Keep in
mind that no foot will be the same size in every type of footwear. Blisters
on the heels and sides of feet can be the result of too much volume
in the boot. Thicker socks or a thin liner can be used to take up volume,
or Superfeet non-prescription orthotics can increase comfort and improve
fit dramatically. Blisters are the result of friction and the heel area
is especially prone to this type of slippage. If your heel slips and
your toes hit the end of the boots on a downhill incline, Superfeet
can help. The heel area is often the site of slippage in new boots,
and sometimes it will diminish as the boot breaks in and develops more
rocker.
When I am fitting a pair of boots, I try to match the boot with the
shape of the foot, paying close attention to things like width, volume,
and elongation. Also, a good boot fit is snug all the way around, with
toe clearance on the downhill, and a minimal amount of heel slippage
(zero is best) on the uphill. Always check how the "break point,"
feels on the top of the ball of your foot when using your toes for support
in a squatting position. The idea here is to simulate a steep uphill
step. This is the main part of a boot that really "breaks-in."
Ask the retailer if they have a policy regarding returns on boots that
have been worn. It is likely they will accept boots that you have worn
in your home. Know that the more you spend on a boot the longer that
boot will last.
Those who are lucky enough to have strong ankles have been known to
travel long distances wearing only tennis-shoes, but they most likely
carry light packs. Some even wear sandals only, even on multi day trips.
Your body and climate zone will determine whether or not this is appropriate.
Keep in mind that you are more likely to suffer from ankle injuries
or stone bruises if you choose a boot that is not stiff or supportive
enough for your needs. Fabric and leather boots are useful for day hikes
and short overnight trips with a light pack. If you are a serious backpacker,
or think you might want to try snowshoeing, the abrasion resistance
and long-term durability of an all leather boot is best. Boots that
have one piece leather uppers cost more, but have less stitching that
can leek or fail due to abrasion. Some boot manufacturers use waterproof/breathable
booties with seam sealed construction to back up the waterproofness
of the upper. Using this technique, boot manufactures can create lightweight
fabric and leather boots that are extremely warm and weatherproof.
If your plans call for extended high altitude or winter travel, it
is best to limit your selection to boots that are crampon-compatible.
This means they have the necessary structure to prevent loss of circulation
from straps and the necessary stiffness, vital to prevent the crampon
from twisting off the boot. Some boots are designed with special crampon
ledges that will accept a step in type binding. If steep snow and ice
loom in your future, a substantial midsole is vital for support during
times when only the crampon frontpoints penetrate. The outsole of a
mountaineering boot should have aggressive self cleaning lugs to reduce
the snowball effect in sticky Sierra Nevada snow. Leather mountaineering
boots used with supergaitors or insulated overboots can be very warm
and will increase comfort on approach hikes while reducing overall weight.
These modern all leather boots are the choice for most vertical ice
extremists. Extreme cold and altitude make double-plastic boots the
choice of many mountaineers. Choose your boot with comfort, fit, and
value in mind. These factors are of greater importance than what brand
the boot might be or what is touted "Boot of the Year."
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