Climbing Adventures
Welcome to the Climbing Adventures Section of our Northern California Outdoor Guide and Gallery. Climbing requires special equipment and skills. Northern Mountain Supply carries a wide range of climbing equipment, and can recommend climbing instructors for the novice. If you have a site or event that you would like to add to this page e-mail us with your information.
This weeks Climbing Adventures Section offers a few pages from the Local Climbing Guide:
Climbing notes for the Humboldt County Coast©
Moonstone Beach
Moonstone Beach: Karen Rock
Karen Rock is located 80 meters north of the parking lot. There are more problems on this formation than are listed. These are just the obvious lines.
- 20. (5.9 tr) Arete on left of formation.
- 21. (5.11- tr)
- 22a. 5.5 tr) Exit left under roof.
- 22b. (5.10- tr) Exit right over the roof to the bolts or (5.9) exit to crack (5.7) on right.
- 23. Lizardhead (5.10d tr)* Crank from the lizardhead to the thin edge.
- 24. (5.6 tr) Jugs on corner to ledge, follow face or crack.
- 25. Skyhook (5.11 tr) Dyno to horn, traverse out right or straight up.
- 26. Standard Route (5.8 tr) Start on corner, move to ledge, follow bubble face/dihedral to chimney exit.
- 27. Urchin' (5.10c/d tr)* Overhanging face on upper block.
- 28. (5.11 tr) Corner on upper block, dyno to triangle hold, exit right.
- 29. Assembly Line (5.11 tr) South face on upper block.
- 30. Groveling Gibsters (5.11 tr) Right arete on upper block.
- 31. (5.8 tr) Lower face right of flake/block, move to upper block.
- 32. (5.9 tr) Starts on flake/block, moves to #27 and #28, or to #29 and #30.
- 33. Buckhorn Bulge (5.12- tr) Short problem using cutter sidepull moving over the bulge left of the large crack.
- 34. Nemesis (5.12 tr) Buckhorn Bulge start, traverse left, move to the upper block, start route #28, traverse left to Urchin 'finish. Contrived route.
- 35. (5.10 tr) Short seam right of Buckhorn Bulge.
- 36. (5.10 tr) Start in large crack, follow edges right over Dream Theme.
- 37. Dream Theme (5.11c tr)* Edges to egg in window, various finishes.
- 37a. Nightmare variation (5.12a/b tr)* Bulging roof left of window.
- 37b. Daydream variation (5.10+ tr) Roof right of window.
- 38. Don't Look Back (5.12+)* Series of dyno's directly to the window. Nightmare finish.
- 39. (5.10- tr) Left slanting arete on the right side of the rock.
- 40. Traverse (5.11+)* Right or left. Great bouldering!
MOONSTONE AND LUFFENHOLTZ BEACH ACCESS
Access from the south:
Follow Highway 101 north from Arcata, California for 16 km (10 miles) to the Westhaven exit (mi. 98.00). Take a left at the stop sign. The next stop sign is Scenic Drive: Moonstone Beach: Turn left and travel for .2 miles. Look for Moonstone Beach Road on the right. Park at the bottom of the hill. Houda Point: Turn right on Scenic Drive. Parking is along the left side of the road next to the large chain fence .6 miles north. South Luffenholtz Beach: Parking is in a paved lot on the left side of the road .8 miles north. North Luffenholtz Beach: Parking is along the left side of the road in a small dirt lot just after a road gate at .9 miles north.
Access from the north:
Take the Trinidad City exit (mi.100.7). Take a right at the stop sign and then an immediate left onto Scenic Drive. North Luffenholtz Beach: Park in a small dirt lot is located 1.9 miles south on the right just before a road gate. South Luffenholtz Beach: Park in the paved lot located 2.0 miles south on the right side of the road. Houda Point: Park along the large chain fence located 2.2 miles south on the right side of the road. Moonstone Beach: Travel for 3.0 miles south. Look for Moonstone Beach Road on the right side of the road. Park at the bottom of the hill.
This guide is not designed as an instructional tool. The writer does not assume any responsibility for any unpleasant situations arising from its use. It is up to each individual climber to judge his or her ability to climb a route safely. Anyone participating in climbing activities should be properly trained or supervised by a properly trained individual.
Copyright © 1995,1996 Douglas W. La Farge
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