Kelsey Trail: Elbow Springs to Harrington Lake
Trail views landscapes showing questionable USFS salvage logging of wildfire
sites near the wilderness boundary. In the wilderness the route traverses
the Kelsey Range and the Siskiyou Crest affords panoramas of the coast
ranges, Siskiyou and Marble Mtns, Trinity Alps, Kalmiopsis and the Pacific
Ocean. Excellent views of Preston and other Siskiyou Peaks, Dillon and
Clear Creek drainages and historical, geological and biological features
are of interest.
The moderately strenuous 14 mile Trail, the Siskiyou leg of the Kelsey
Trail, begins on the Clear/Dillon Creek Divide, rises to the Kelsey Range--Bear
and Red Mountains--drops into a Dillon Creek headwaters, and goes over
the Siskiyou Crest to Harrington Lake in the South Fork of the Smith River
watershed. At Harrington Lake one may continue on to Gunbarrel or Buck
Creek trailheads on the Smith River or follow the Siskiyou Crest to Elk
Valley.
Cautions:
- In thunderstorms exposed ridge sections not advised.
- Trail in some places is difficult to follow.
- Crossing the Clear Creek and South Fork Smith River may not be possible
during heavy runoff.
- In dry season Carry extra water (2 liters).
Points Along The Trail
Distance: 0.0
Elevation: 4700'
Trailhead: A tree sign is marked Bear Lakes. In 1996 the trailhead was
pushed over the landing by heavy equipment related to fire salvage. The
trail is not obvious. Walk toward the ridge crest from the road.
Distance: 0.2
Elevation: 4750'
Elbow Springs. Don't expect water here late in season. A wooden Elbow
Springs arrow nailed pointing down to a trailside fir is easily missed.
Distance: 1.7
Elevation: 5000'
Bear Valley Gap. Looking down on Bear Valley nestled in Clear Creek watershed.
I did not see a side trail depart.
Distance: 2.0
Elevation: 5560'
Bear Pass Wilderness Boundary. A side trail junction departs here for
little Bear Valley and Bear Lakes. Down this trail about 0.2 miles is
Little Bear Valley and a waterhole in meadow. To Bear Lakes take trail
downhill. This one mile trail may seem to be taking you to lower lake
but hang in there going downhill.
Distance:4.5
Elevation:5000'
Gap in Red Mountain. Here the peridotite landscape begins. Approaching
the gap you will see a flat on the other side with a large boulder in
it. That's where you are heading to sit down in an old camp. Water is
available early in the season.
Distance:6.0
Elevation: 5616'
Red Mountain. You will stop many times in this area unless driven by slashing
rain, snow, or wind, as views are many, including one into the canyon
of Clear Creek 4000' below. From here the trail rapidly descends.
Distance:7.5
Elevation: 5040'
Dillon Creek. Dense fir forest by avalanche chute. Water year round in
creek and at spring by trail camp.
Distance: 8.5
Elevation: 5640'
Clear Creek Junction. Danger in winter. Don't plan a Clear Creek component
of your trip unless you know that you can cross this formidable stream--several
times to get to the Clear Creek trailhead.
Distance:8.6
Elevation: 5610'
Hillside Seep. A pitcher plant (Darlingtonia californica) seepside camp.
Distance: 9.6
Elevation: 5360'
Willis Hole. Looking down on a broad flat basin of Dillon Creek headwaters
with pond.
Distance: 9.9
Elevation: 5800'
Siskiyou Crest. Highest point of trip great views in all directions. Can
see the Pacific Ocean. From here trail descends 500' trail may be obscure
in places looking downhill head to left if in doubt to encounter headwaters
basin. Trail goes through a marshy area 40 yards north of lake. Cross
lake outlet stream and go away from lake around rock outcrop and circle
back to lake for campsites on south side.
Distance:10.9
Elevation: 5160'
Harrington Lake. No fish , only newts. Camps are in rocks not by water.
History
The trail was originally built under the direction of a Corps of Engineers,
Lt. Colonel. W. R. Kelsey, who came to Fort Jones (Scott Valley) in 1849,
"retired and out of a job." In 1850 he explored, guided by Indian
Scouts, to find a route to shorten the supply line to Fort Jones from
Vancouver Barracks on the Columbia River. In 1851 he worked with Chinese
laborers to build a trail connecting Fort Jones to the port of Crescent
City. Thousand upon thousands of gold bullion and tons of supplies were
shipped on the Kelsey Trail in the early gold rush days. After crossing
the Marble Mountains a crucial trail juncture was the crossing of the
Klamath River. At the place now called, Ferry Pt., a boatman was contracted
to provide crossing services. Army packers were Californiano vaqueros
from the mother lode country. The last commercial use in 1909.
Animals
Old growth forest species: bears, wolverines, marten, fisher, mountain
lion, goshawk, peregrine falcon, spotted owl, white headed woodpeckers,
pileated woodpecker, ruffed grouse, tree swallows, bald eagles.
Plants
At Bear Lakes Sadler Oak (Quercus sadleriana), mountain hemlock (Tsuga
mertensiana), weeping spruce (Picea breweriana), south wall of upper Bear
Lakes basin, Alaska cedar (Cupressus nootkatensis). At Hillside Seep look
for Darlingtonia seep species. Willis Hole is named for the pioneer California
botanist Willis Lynn Jepson who supposedly enjoyed the diverse vegetation
of this particular area. Look for Shasta fir (Abies magnifica var. shastensis)
near Siskiyou Crest.
Geology
Red Mountain is composed of peridotite which yields toxic soils with
low water holding capacity. Runoff is rapid and streams swell.
References
Adams, Steve and Greg Blomstrom 1977
CNPS Seeks To Save A Fragile Wilderness, Vol. 5 , No. 3, p 3-11
Fremontia
Hart, J. 1975
Bigfoot Country, p198-216
Sierra Club.
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